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Suicide Tour! From the Indian trailhead up Powerline trail to the east slopes of Homicide. Across to the base of the NE couloir of North Suicide. Up the NE couloir to the top of North Suicide, down to Windy Gap, up South Suicide, down Falls Creek and a hitchhike down the Seward highway.

 Steep snow, some rock, lots of choss and lots of scree slogging.   ( Read more... )



Aug
06
2013
Accessing the Eklutna Glacier
Posted in Chugach Range & Mountaineering    Tags: eklutna  


Eric approaching the Eklutna July 2013. Note the rock glacier and gully.

...then the fun started. What in May had been a simple skin now required a traverse across a shifting groaning rock glacier. The traverse started with a jog across the Bellicose/Benign gully to a safe-enough zone where we transitioned from sneakers to mountain boots. Then up and across the rock glacier which consisted of glacier ice covered with mud and rock that shifted with every step. It should be mentioned that above the rock glacier is wall of loose rock that is routinely shedding the ubiquitous microwave-sized block...   ( Read more... )




W. Ridge of Bashful as seen from Thunderbird Peak

Read more for additional pictures and a ridiculously detailed route description.   ( Read more... )



With sun and high temps in mind Jake and I set out to try the NW Ridge of Williwaw. We tromped up and over the Ballfield, dropped down next to Williwaw Lake and then trudged up the scree pile that is at the base of the NW Ridge. Then up the steep and exposed NW ridge to the summit of Williwaw.

   ( Read more... )



May
07
2013
Icicle Peak - East Face
Trip Date: 05/07/13 - 09/10/13   Posted in Chugach Range & Mountaineering    Tags: 7000-footers, eklutna  

Icicle Peak route profiles and pictures.   ( Read more... )



Jul
16
2012
Mont Blanc - Dôme du Goûter North Ridge
Trip Date: 07/16/12 - 07/17/12   Posted in France & Mountaineering    Tags: chamonix  

Scouring the guidebook for routes. Of the 3 straightforward routes, the Gouter route (which is considered the normal route) has you ascend the Grand Couloir; a 1500' wall of choss that shreds rocks and kills people on a regular basis. The Tres Monts route is touted by one guidebook as having the lowest objective danger... But last week 9 people were killed in an avalanche on the route.

That leaves the North Ridge; low objective danger and an elegant ridge to almost 14,000'. The only problem is the approach; 1 hour below the Midi (high risk of rockfall), 20 minutes below seracs and a crevasse field called La Jonction, which is so bad the guidebook actually says "call the hut warden about conditions".   ( Read more... )



Jul
01
2012
Chamonix
Trip Date: 07/01/12 - 07/29/12   Posted in France & Mountaineering    Tags: chamonix  




We spent all of July in France. Three weeks in Chamonix and one week in Saint Gervais with friends. I have hundreds of photos and pages of journal entries to sort through so this is nothing more than a brief roundup of our time spent and climbs done.   ( Read more... )



Jul
16
2011
North Suicide
Posted in Chugach Range & Mountaineering    Tags: csp-plan, dogs, frontrange  

We awoke to sun on Saturday so we took a welcomed break from bathroom remodeling and headed up Rabbit Creek for a jaunt up North Suicide. Up the valley, a nice long break at Rabbit Lake so the dog could swim and then up the NW gully to the ridge. On the ridgeline we had one spot of D0 (the dog equivalent of A0) followed by a casual ridgeline to the summit. Back down with spotters for the D0 section, down the long chossy NW gully and then back to the lake for more dog swimming and home at a decent hour.   ( Read more... )



Up south Suicide with two hot dogs on a lazy afternoon and the Northwest Ridge of Indianhouse catches my eye. A day later I'm back with a rope, rack and partner for nice long ramble across gendarmes and sidewalks on a perfect Memorial Day.
[ Northwest Ridge of Indianhouse ]


May
10
2011
Foraker (abort) Denali (attempt)
Trip Date: 05/10/11 - 05/25/11   Posted in Alaska Range & Mountaineering    Tags: accidents, kahiltna  

A short lived Foraker attempt and a foul weather trip up to 17 camp on the West Buttress. (Next year I'm going sport climbing.)   ( Read more... )




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