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The Mooses Tooth (peak on left) as seen from the summit of Mt. Dickey. Ham & Eggs takes the narrow couloir just left of the summit.

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The North face of the Mooses Tooth as seen from the summit of Explorer Peak.

Lots of news and commentary has been published recently in regards to the recent accident on the Root Canal Glacier. In short, Christopher Lackey, a young man from Houston Texas, was camped on the Root Glacier hoping to climb Ham & Eggs on the South face of the Mooses Tooth. KTNA (Talkeetna Public Radio) reports that sometime during the night a small earthquake triggered serac fall on the hanging glaciers that cling to the Eye Tooth / Bear Tooth ridge just above camp. Apparently the icefall was immense and debris poured onto the glacier and obliterated the entire camp. Only Mr. Lackey was killed - the other 3 climbers somehow escaped.   ( Read more... )



Mar
19
2011
Kickstep - West Ridge
Posted in Kenai Range & Mountaineering    Tags: turnagain  

Saturday was yet another absolutely beautiful day in Southcentral Alaska, so we packed the skis and some climbing gear and headed south to try Kickstep. We left the parking lot around 10:30 with ski gear, crampons, axe, 30m of rope, harnesses and a couple pickets. Travelling up Lyon Creek was fast and 2 1/2 later we were at the base of Kickstep's West Ridge.   ( Read more... )



Mar
12
2011
Carpathian - North Ridge
Trip Date: 03/12/11 - 03/13/11   Posted in Kenai Range & Mountaineering    Tags: anchorage-classics, portage  
Carpathian.   It beckons to every climber and skier who happens to catch sight of it on a clear day. It looms above Turnagain arm like an impregnable fortress. You can't help but gawk at the prominent summit as you drive by. Every time you top out on a peak in Turnagain, you turn and look to the Northeast hoping to catch a glimpse. See it on a clear day and you can't help but start planning an attempt.
[ Carpathian Peak - North Ridge ]


Jul
17
2010
East Kiliak
Trip Date: 07/17/10 - 07/18/10   Posted in Chugach Range & Mountaineering    Tags: 7000-footers, peters, ram  

As if by magic the rains lifted and the sun rose. We threw our stuff together haphazardly and called around till a dog sitter was found... then jumped in the car and by 8am were hiking up Ram Valley underneath baby blue sky.

The objective was East Kiliak - a seldom visited peak that lies at the head of the Raisin Glacier - a seldom visited glacier that lies at the head of Peter's Creek. Since we had heard the peak was semi-technical we packed a light alpine rack, a basic glacier touring setup and overnight gear.   ( Read more... )



Jun
01
2010
Accident on Freezy Nuts
Posted in Alaska Range & Mountaineering    Tags: accidents, ruth  

We floated the Chulitna River over the long weekend… hot and sunny and with glorious views of the Alaska Range towering above the river. The mercury climbed to 80 degrees and we drifted down river in shorts and t-shirts. On Sunday night we camped on a gravel bar with the summits of Denali and Mooses Tooth jutting above the clouds. The view from my sleeping bag serene when I unzipped the tent and looked out to see the faint morning light at 3:30am turning the peaks a deep pink. When you're on a gravel bar in the sun the mountains look so peaceful and pleasant…

And then back to Anchorage and the working life. I check my email to see a string from random people I don't know. And then I check the news; 2 dead in an avalanche in the Ruth Gorge: Andrew Herzenberg, age 39, and Avner Magen, age 42 - both from Toronto, Ontario. I read the NPS report… they were killed while descending Freezy Nuts on Saturday, May 30th.


Bryce Stath on "Freezy Nuts" - Spring 2009.

A little later I read the string of emails and make the connection… I had been corresponding with Avner Magen for a few weeks and now friends and family were asking if I had any news.   ( Read more... )



May
06
2010
Mooses Tooth
Trip Date: 05/06/10 - 05/10/10   Posted in Alaska Range & Mountaineering    Tags: ruth  

Video from our climb of Ham and Eggs in May 2010. More pix of the route here.



Aconcagua - Part IV.  Books and Web Links, route info, logistical support etc..  (Basic stuff that you could probably get from Secor's book or Summitpost.)   ( Read more... )



Aconcagua's Polish Glacier... Part 3 of 4.   ( Read more... )



Jan
10
2010
Aconcagua's Polish Direct - Part II (Base Camp to Camp II)
Trip Date: 01/10/10 - 01/19/10   Posted in Argentina & Mountaineering    Tags: aconcagua  

Aconcagua's Polish Glacier... Part 2 of 4.   ( Read more... )



Jan
05
2010
Aconcagua's Polish Direct - Part I (Getting there)
Trip Date: 01/05/10 - 01/10/10   Posted in Argentina & Mountaineering    Tags: aconcagua  

Aconcagua's Polish Glacier... Part 1 of 4.   ( Read more... )




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