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MCA
Mountaineering
Jul
17
2010
East Kiliak
Trip Date: 07/17/10 - 07/18/10   Posted in Chugach Range & Mountaineering    Tags: 7000-footers, peters, ram  

As if by magic the rains lifted and the sun rose. We threw our stuff together haphazardly and called around till a dog sitter was found... then jumped in the car and by 8am were hiking up Ram Valley underneath baby blue sky.

The objective was East Kiliak - a seldom visited peak that lies at the head of the Raisin Glacier - a seldom visited glacier that lies at the head of Peter's Creek. Since we had heard the peak was semi-technical we packed a light alpine rack, a basic glacier touring setup and overnight gear.   ( Read more... )



Jun
01
2010
Accident on Freezy Nuts
Posted in Alaska Range & Mountaineering    Tags: accidents, ruth  

We floated the Chulitna River over the long weekend… hot and sunny and with glorious views of the Alaska Range towering above the river. The mercury climbed to 80 degrees and we drifted down river in shorts and t-shirts. On Sunday night we camped on a gravel bar with the summits of Denali and Mooses Tooth jutting above the clouds. The view from my sleeping bag serene when I unzipped the tent and looked out to see the faint morning light at 3:30am turning the peaks a deep pink. When you're on a gravel bar in the sun the mountains look so peaceful and pleasant…

And then back to Anchorage and the working life. I check my email to see a string from random people I don't know. And then I check the news; 2 dead in an avalanche in the Ruth Gorge: Andrew Herzenberg, age 39, and Avner Magen, age 42 - both from Toronto, Ontario. I read the NPS report… they were killed while descending Freezy Nuts on Saturday, May 30th.


Bryce Stath on "Freezy Nuts" - Spring 2009.

A little later I read the string of emails and make the connection… I had been corresponding with Avner Magen for a few weeks and now friends and family were asking if I had any news.   ( Read more... )



May
06
2010
Mooses Tooth
Trip Date: 05/06/10 - 05/10/10   Posted in Alaska Range & Mountaineering    Tags: ruth  

Video from our climb of Ham and Eggs in May 2010. More pix of the route here.



Aconcagua - Part IV.  Books and Web Links, route info, logistical support etc..  (Basic stuff that you could probably get from Secor's book or Summitpost.)   ( Read more... )



Aconcagua's Polish Glacier... Part 3 of 4.   ( Read more... )



Jan
10
2010
Aconcagua's Polish Direct - Part II (Base Camp to Camp II)
Trip Date: 01/10/10 - 01/19/10   Posted in Argentina & Mountaineering    Tags: aconcagua  

Aconcagua's Polish Glacier... Part 2 of 4.   ( Read more... )



Jan
05
2010
Aconcagua's Polish Direct - Part I (Getting there)
Trip Date: 01/05/10 - 01/10/10   Posted in Argentina & Mountaineering    Tags: aconcagua  

Aconcagua's Polish Glacier... Part 1 of 4.   ( Read more... )



Our plan was to climb Flute Peak. Flute Peak sits 10 miles from the South Fork trailhead at the very head of the Flute Glacier. The route consists of a glacier crossing, steep snow and a final rock pitch. There were 3 of us - Eric, Yvonne and I. All of us had tried it once before. Eric had actually made it to the rock pitch last spring before backing off unwilling to solo the final step. Yvonne and I had "tried" it last year; but our efforts had ended early when we ascended the wrong approach gully. We instead hiked up Ewe Peak, not willing to out the effort into additional route finding. Ideally one would climb Flute Peak as an overnight trip - taking time to leisurely hike up to the glacier on day 1 and then climb and hike out on day 2. However - we opted to try it in a day. So in we tromped... me soaking wet and the clouds thick and soupy.   ( Read more... )



May
02
2009
Mt. Barrille, Mt. Dickey & Freezy Nuts
Trip Date: 05/02/09 - 05/13/09   Posted in Alaska Range & Mountaineering    Tags: ruth  

Spring climbing came once again... and once again I started trolling for partners. Many options and many ideas were voiced but Yvonne and I finally announced we were going to the Alaska Range; to the Ruth Gorge. Everyone wants to go to the Ruth - and suddenly Yvonne and I had 2 other partners (Bryce Stath and Austin Thayer) to share camp and contacts with.   ( Read more... )



For years I've been eyeing the couloirs that snake directly up the north face of Bear Point (the wall above Mirror Lake on the Glenn Highway). There are 2 very obvious lines - a direct couloir that drops straight off the summit for almost 3000' and a twisty turny line that ascend though rock bands and tops out just east of the summit. This year the couloirs have been melting out and thin ribbons of ice have been appearing, making them quite appealing!   ( Read more... )




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