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FNCNFAIC
MCA
May
13
2005
On beacons and Mt. Blackburn
Trip Date: 05/13/05 - 05/23/05   Posted in Wrangell Mountains & Mountaineering    Tags: bivy  

Blackburn The climbing scene is all-abuzz with the recent report of a rescue on Mt. Hayes last week. Two Fairbanks climbers set out to climb the East Ridge and made it up and over Levi's Bump (10,500') without incident where a storm forced them to dig a snow cave. They waited out weather then went for the summit. Apparently they went for the summit the next day - but bad weather forced them to turn around and head back just shy of the summit around 13,000'. They descended for a while, but the weather picked up - and after two falls they opted to dig a snowcave and bivy on the exposed ridge. I must note that all this is hearsay based on a report in the Anchorage Daily News - which probably is not reporting something. According to the news the guys made it through the night and come morning decided to press the little help button on their Personal Locator Beacon. A couple hours later the military buzzed the climbers in a C-130 and shortly thereafter the National Guard PJs - who are as close as you can get to modern Ninja warriors - showed up on a Pave-Hawk and plucked the climbers off the ridge. An hour later they were back in Fairbanks.

As I stated - the news probably isn't reporting something - but I hate reports like this. It's what makes the "pay for rescue" crowd come out screaming for blood and what leads to legislation like the beacon legislation introduced in Washington and Oregon.

I hate to judge. For all I know the storm opened up the bergschund turning the walk down into an epic struggle… possible? Not really. It's more likely they were just cold, tired and scared of avalanche danger which had probably escalated during their nighttime bivy. They did what countless other people have thought about doing: They called for a rescue instead of taking the risk to get back to their high camp.

Climb up here long enough and you'll have a couple great bivy stories yourself and chances are you'll probably hear even greater bivy stories from friends and acquaintances. One of the best "stuck on a ridge oh god we're going to die" stories out there is Jeff Benowitz's "Strange Vibrations" which was published in Climbing Magazine in March 1995. Benowitz tells an amazing tale about enduring days inside a snowcave just below the summit of Mt. McGinnis after an ascent of the Cutthroat Couloir. They fought sanity and dreamed of a helicopter rescue. Knowing that a helicopter wasn't going to show up, they were forced to descend a wind-loaded ridge after their cave started making popping noises in the night. If you can find a copy it's well worth the read.

Another great bivy story that comes to mind is of local climbers Roger and Mary Kemppel on Mt. Barrile. They had ascended the Japanese Couloir and were on their way down when foul weather and poor visibility forced them to hole up on the summit ridge for a night. They endured the night and then descended the NW face the next morning. When I asked Roger how the night was he responded with a classic understatement: "Oh it wasn't so bad. Kind of nice actually," Roger said. "My wife didn't like it though." One can only imagine what the night was really like.

Blackburn

Anyways… enough about other people. I have a handful of fun bivy stories and one of the best is from a May 2005 ascent of Mt. Blackburn. One day I'll write a real story about our climb - but for now I'll jump to the good part...   ( Read more... )



Jul
25
2008
Gannett Peak - West Couloir
Trip Date: 07/25/08 - 07/29/08   Posted in Wyoming & Mountaineering   
Can you really remember when the climb started? How the pack feel when you first lifted it? Or did you only really notice the pack once you started to climb steeper ground? Was the first meeting with your friend the start of the friendship - or does a friendship start slowly like the slog to base camp, solidifying only as you get higher and the climbing gets harder with no end to the difficulties in sight?
[ Gannett Peak - West Couloir ]


Mar
19
2011
Kickstep - West Ridge
Posted in Kenai Range & Mountaineering    Tags: turnagain  

Saturday was yet another absolutely beautiful day in Southcentral Alaska, so we packed the skis and some climbing gear and headed south to try Kickstep. We left the parking lot around 10:30 with ski gear, crampons, axe, 30m of rope, harnesses and a couple pickets. Travelling up Lyon Creek was fast and 2 1/2 later we were at the base of Kickstep's West Ridge.   ( Read more... )



Mar
12
2011
Carpathian - North Ridge
Trip Date: 03/12/11 - 03/13/11   Posted in Kenai Range & Mountaineering    Tags: anchorage-classics, portage  
Carpathian.   It beckons to every climber and skier who happens to catch sight of it on a clear day. It looms above Turnagain arm like an impregnable fortress. You can't help but gawk at the prominent summit as you drive by. Every time you top out on a peak in Turnagain, you turn and look to the Northeast hoping to catch a glimpse. See it on a clear day and you can't help but start planning an attempt.
[ Carpathian Peak - North Ridge ]


Silvertip Creek Ave Video above.  Notes and thoughts on Manitoba after the jump.   ( Read more... )



Mar
03
2011
Follies
Posted in Chugach Range & Ice Climbing    Tags: anchorage-classics, portage  

I worked all last weekend – so when a sunny day and an ice climbing partner presented themselves mid-week I jumped on the opportunity.  Wayne and I drove down to Portage and found an unoccupied Follies with an easy creek crossing to the base. Follies is a well known local classic that sometimes has an abysmal approach.  For the most part the ice across the creek tends to be pretty thin – and I guess lots of people have had mini-epics when falling through the ice or having the wade across in fishing waders.  We lucked out… the creek was frozen solid and we walked across and were at the base in minutes.


Wayne on the second pitch.

More pix after the jump.   ( Read more... )



Feb
17
2011
Peak 3
Posted in Chugach Range & Skiing    Tags: frontrange  

I go up Peak 3 all the time so I'm usually not inspired to take photos. But yesterday was a beautiful warm afternoon that felt very spring like. Skiing wasn't so great - but if you can ski Peak 3 after work in Feburary then I say the skiing is good. Come on spring! Some choice pix are below.


Todd booting towards the summit.


Ella, Koven & I on the top.


Heading down... snow was a little hardpacked. Todd was loving his newly refurbished Volkl Explosives.



Feb
05
2011
Peak 4 & Peak 2
Posted in Chugach Range & Skiing    Tags: frontrange  

Fresh snow and no wind meant conditions were ideal for local powder… so come late morning we headed up to Rabbit Valley and began the trek in. One run off Peak 4 and one run off Peak 2 and we were back home by 2:30pm just in time for afternoon errands.

A beautiful day with some half-way decent conditions for early February Front Range skiing. More pix after the jump.   ( Read more... )



On Christmas Eve Eric Parsons and I went down to Turnagain and skied Tincan Proper. This is more or less how it went...   ( Read more... )



I love classics… be it rock, ice, ski descents and even the occasional mellow river run.  So when I heard that the classic ice routes in Middle Glacier Canyon were fatter than usual we dusted off the ice gear and headed south to give one a try.  We hiked into the canyon and checked out all the routes.  Most of the routes looked either hard or thin, but Lucky Man looked better than usual.

Lucky Man is a wonderful ice route that is about 300’ tall and was first climbed by Charlie Sassera and Robert Frank in 1982.  It usually has a very very thin beginning - after which the route ascends a mellow ramp system to the canyon rim.  However this year there is a super easy sneak on climbers left that gets you past the thin horrow-show of verglass and stubby placements down low on the route.   ( Read more... )




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