Gannett Peak - West Couloir
Trip Date: 07/25/08 - 07/29/08   Posted in Wyoming & Mountaineering   
Can you really remember when the climb started? How the pack feel when you first lifted it? Or did you only really notice the pack once you started to climb steeper ground? Was the first meeting with your friend the start of the friendship - or does a friendship start slowly like the slog to base camp, solidifying only as you get higher and the climbing gets harder with no end to the difficulties in sight?
[ Gannett Peak - West Couloir ]

Kickstep - West Ridge
Posted in Kenai Range & Mountaineering    Tags: turnagain  

Saturday was yet another absolutely beautiful day in Southcentral Alaska, so we packed the skis and some climbing gear and headed south to try Kickstep. We left the parking lot around 10:30 with ski gear, crampons, axe, 30m of rope, harnesses and a couple pickets. Travelling up Lyon Creek was fast and 2 1/2 later we were at the base of Kickstep's West Ridge.   ( Read more... )

Carpathian - North Ridge
Trip Date: 03/12/11 - 03/13/11   Posted in Kenai Range & Mountaineering    Tags: anchorage-classics, portage  
Carpathian.   It beckons to every climber and skier who happens to catch sight of it on a clear day. It looms above Turnagain arm like an impregnable fortress. You can't help but gawk at the prominent summit as you drive by. Every time you top out on a peak in Turnagain, you turn and look to the Northeast hoping to catch a glimpse. See it on a clear day and you can't help but start planning an attempt.
[ Carpathian Peak - North Ridge ]

Silvertip Creek Ave Video above.  Notes and thoughts on Manitoba after the jump.   ( Read more... )

Posted in Chugach Range & Ice Climbing    Tags: anchorage-classics, portage  

I worked all last weekend – so when a sunny day and an ice climbing partner presented themselves mid-week I jumped on the opportunity.  Wayne and I drove down to Portage and found an unoccupied Follies with an easy creek crossing to the base. Follies is a well known local classic that sometimes has an abysmal approach.  For the most part the ice across the creek tends to be pretty thin – and I guess lots of people have had mini-epics when falling through the ice or having the wade across in fishing waders.  We lucked out… the creek was frozen solid and we walked across and were at the base in minutes.

Wayne on the second pitch.

More pix after the jump.   ( Read more... )

Peak 3
Posted in Chugach Range & Skiing    Tags: frontrange  

I go up Peak 3 all the time so I'm usually not inspired to take photos. But yesterday was a beautiful warm afternoon that felt very spring like. Skiing wasn't so great - but if you can ski Peak 3 after work in Feburary then I say the skiing is good. Come on spring! Some choice pix are below.

Todd booting towards the summit.

Ella, Koven & I on the top.

Heading down... snow was a little hardpacked. Todd was loving his newly refurbished Volkl Explosives.

Peak 4 & Peak 2
Posted in Chugach Range & Skiing    Tags: frontrange  

Fresh snow and no wind meant conditions were ideal for local powder… so come late morning we headed up to Rabbit Valley and began the trek in. One run off Peak 4 and one run off Peak 2 and we were back home by 2:30pm just in time for afternoon errands.

A beautiful day with some half-way decent conditions for early February Front Range skiing. More pix after the jump.   ( Read more... )

On Christmas Eve Eric Parsons and I went down to Turnagain and skied Tincan Proper. This is more or less how it went...   ( Read more... )

I love classics… be it rock, ice, ski descents and even the occasional mellow river run.  So when I heard that the classic ice routes in Middle Glacier Canyon were fatter than usual we dusted off the ice gear and headed south to give one a try.  We hiked into the canyon and checked out all the routes.  Most of the routes looked either hard or thin, but Lucky Man looked better than usual.

Lucky Man is a wonderful ice route that is about 300’ tall and was first climbed by Charlie Sassera and Robert Frank in 1982.  It usually has a very very thin beginning - after which the route ascends a mellow ramp system to the canyon rim.  However this year there is a super easy sneak on climbers left that gets you past the thin horrow-show of verglass and stubby placements down low on the route.   ( Read more... )

Where it's always sunny
Posted in Kenai Range & Skiing    Tags: turnagain  

There is a place south of town where it’s always sunny.  Where the sunlight warms a golden bowl even on the darkest days of the year.  Where the snow is deep and the runs are steep.  Where ribs are scraped clean by expert kid snowboarders and couloirs are filled with discarded sluff from passing skiers.   I won’t say where it is… anyone who skis south of town will recognize it – but if you don’t then you’re missing out.  It is, as I mentioned, always sunny and the snow is always good.   ( Read more... )

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