JT passed along info that Korohusk was in good shape, so on Saturday Yvonne, Bryce, Charlie and I headed up Eagle River to give it a try. The initial four miles went by in no time and soon we had reached the turn off point and were headed uphill. As usual the start required a little bush whacking; but it was still early enough in the season to where travel was easy. After about an hour of hiking bear and moose trails we finally found the trail and after 4 hours of travel were sitting at the base of the route.
The route was totally filled in with snow, which made travel fairly easy; however the snow was shin to knee deep so we all took a turn kicking steps. The waterfall pitch was easily climbed via a snow ramp and soon we were kicking steps up the final snow slopes.
Yvonne and I had been up Korohusk once before but had been turned around by a thunderstorm on the summit ridge. This time the clouds were thick but there was no precipitation so we quickly booted up the final snow slope and were soon scrambling across the final summit ridge. We reached the top at 3:30pm – 7 hours after starting.
On the top the clouds parted to give us magnificent views in all directions and we lounged around enjoying the views for about 30 minutes. We then packed up and headed down; reaching the bottom of the route in 1 1/2 hours after a spectacular glissade down!
We then tromped out, reaching the car by 8:30 pm – a nice solid 12 hour day and a perfect start to summer climbing!
Korohusk Peak S. Face – 3rd Class, 7,030′
Route: Hike up the Eagle River trail for approximately 4 miles. After you pass the “Perch” you will drop downhill and be hiking along a flat spot. At this point there will be a faint trail leading uphill; right next to it is a sign that says “Trail” and pointing to the right (the sign refers to the Crow Pass trail). Take the faint trail that begins as a game trail – meaning you’ll lose it and find it often. Follow it uphill but continue to angle up and right. After about 20-30 minutes of travel you should hit the main trail that follows a ridge line above and west of Dishwater Creek. Follow the trail until you reach tree line where you will exit into a hanging valley. Hike up this valley to the left of the moraine until you reach the south face of Korohusk. Ascend the scree or snow (depending on the season) slopes and then traverse E about 400′ until you reach a section of 4th class rock that is (climbers) right of a waterfall. In early season this waterfall will be totally filled in with snow. Ascend this rock band to the upper snow couloir which you then ascend to the summit. This route is best done in mid-late May when there is still snow in the couloir. The base and waterfall pitch tends to melt out by early June.
Gear: Ice axe, crampons and mountain boots if done in early season. It has been done in sneakers in late season.
Time: 12-14 hours car to car.