In April 2024 I spent a week on and around Glacier 1 in the Alaska Range. Glacier 1 is the first eastern glaciated lobe of the Ruth Glacier – the valley just southeast of “The Great Gorge”. It is an area of historic mountaineering importance due to Fredrick Cook’s 1906 expedition where Cook claimed to have ascended Mt McKinley.
The story is well known in mountaineering circles: Cook traveled up the Ruth Glacier and claimed to have reached the summit of McKinley after navigating the myriad of icefalls and cliffs that no one had ever ascended before. Upon returning from his expedition he announced his success and immediately became an American hero. He graced the front page of national newspapers and toured packed lecture halls where he told of his daring exploits.
However within a few years other explorers had started questioning the validity of his claims and in 1910 an expedition was launched to verify his ascent. This expedition, lead by the Mazamas (the Oregon Club of Mountain Climbing), followed Cook’s route up the Ruth and they were able to retrace his steps and replicate many of the photos Cook’s team took. It didn’t take long for them to discover that his claims of ascent were fraudulent and that he had instead climbed a minor peak above Glacier 1. A well documented article with photos was published in the 1910 Mazama Annual which debunked Cooks claims.
In 1955 Bradford Washington lead an expedition to Glacier 1 where he was able to accurately replicate Cook’s infamous summit photo and put the issue to rest.
When viewing the historical photos I was amazed to see that many taken in places I am familiar with. I’ve put together some comparison photos below. While technically all of these aren’t from Glacier 1, the originals were taken on the 1910 Mazama expedition which traveled to Glacier 1 and the Ruth Amphitheater so I’ve included them.
You can read more about the Mazama expedition in the 1945 Mazama Annual. You can also check out To the Top of the Continent, an online exhibit by Mathew Brock (Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager) featuring images of the expedition from their archives. For detailed notes and photos from the Washburn expedition you can check out The Dishonorable Dr. Cook, Debunking the Notorious Mount McKinley Hoax by Bradford Washburn and Peter Cherici.
Significant Peaks
The significant peaks in the zone are the handful of peaks in the 6000’ range that lie at the head of the glacier. Most of these peaks were named by the 1910 Mazama expedition: The largest peak at the head of the glacier was christened Mt Mazama and the surrounding peaks named for expedition members or supporters. Mt Sholes was named for C. H. Sholes, of Portland, who shouldered the work of financing and equipping the 1910 expedition. Mount Glisan was named for Rodney L. Glisan – a long-time member of The Mazamas (note: the name was officially recorded as Mount Glisen however the original 1910 document used Glisan) and Mount Lee after John A. Lee, president of the Mazamas.
Mt. Mazama (6798’)
Mt Mazama is the prominent peak at the head of Glacier 1. The first ascent of Mazama was via the West Couloir by Geoff Hornby (U.K.) and Mike Smith (U.S.) on May 17, 2000. They initially tried the southwest ridge, but were stopped by gendarmes covered with soft snow. They then climbed the central couloir on the west face, which led directly to the summit (WI3+, 1,600′). Hornby, unaware of the existing name, called the peak “Mount Tassles”. (source: AAJ 2001) There is a backstory to where the name came from but I’m not posting salacious gossip.
Apart from that route I know of no other routes. There is a massive steep couloir on the north face but connecting the couloir to the summit would require tricks. The same goes for the Southwest couloir which is a great evening ski – but continuing to the summit would be difficult.
Mt Sholes (5181’)
Mt Sholes is the smaller snow covered peak that is southwest of Mt. Mazama. It is a wonderful ski and view of Broken Tooth from the summit is astounding. The first recorded ascent was by Geoff Hornby (U.K.) and Mike Smith (U.S.) via the East Face in May 2001, however given that Paul Roderick has a fleet of ski planes and loves to ski, I find it hard to believe he hadn’t skied it prior to 2001. When conditions are good locals will fly in for an afternoon lap and if you’re camped there you can run laps and glide back to your tent in time for dinner.
Mt Glisen (6336’)
Glisen is the peak due south of Fake Peak. It’s a complex network of steep couloirs and gendarmes and an ascent would be difficult. The first ascent was via the West Face by Lindsay Griffin and Oliver Shergold on June 10, 2001. Their account is as follows:
Shergold and I climbed Glisen in a 28-hour round trip from base camp. Leaving camp at 4:00 a.m. we first followed a deep avalanche runnel in a 50-55-degree subsidiary couloir on the west face, with a loose mixed exit onto the south ridge. After a couple of wet granite pitches we gained access to a traverse line onto the middle of the west face. There a succession of interesting mixed pitches, interrupted by the usual almost-bottomless Alaskan snow, led over a rock tower to the summit crest. This proved broad and relatively cornice-free, and we reached the summit at about 5:00 p.m., after 13 roped pitches above the head of the initial couloir. On the descent (downclimbing and rapping) we discovered a ledge system, hidden from below, by which we could have avoided the crux section. We regained the top of the couloir at 11:00 p.m. The walls of the couloir were plastered with potentially dangerous snow formations, one of which collapsed and swept the lower gully shortly before we arrived. We waited for colder conditions, but a thin cloud cover hindered a freeze, and our packet of biscuits and liter of water each were running thin (we had anticipated being out for six to eight hours). Shergold and I therefore rappelled the steep mixed pitch into the upper couloir at 2 a.m. and started a roped descent. We were back at camp by 8:00 a.m. on the 10th. Glisen is a fine summit, and we feel that a competent party could climb it much faster. We graded the 650-meter West Face Indirect Alpine TD (Scottish V mixed).
– North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Glacier 1 (Fake Peak Glacier) Peaks, Lindsay Griffin AAJ 2002
On our trip we skied a loop around Glisen and spied a wonderful complex ice gully on the East Face. If you’re looking for an interesting challenge it awaits a first ascent!
Mt Lee (6332’)
Lee is the furthest south large peak at the head of Glacier 1. It was first ascended by Mike Fletcher and Lindsay Griffin in June 2001 via the “straightforward 45-degree, 550-meter west-northwest couloir, which led directly to the summit”.
Lee also has a potential moderate mixed route up the South Ridge which can be gained via a couloir on the West Face. The East Face is mostly snow except for the last few hundred feet and potential steep east facing fun line could be skied off the Lee / Glisen col.
Mt Balrog (7979’)
Mt. Balrog lies at the head of Glacier 1 and due north of Glacier Point. Aside from the obvious Tolkien reference the origin of the name is unknown – but it’s possible it is a tribute to Roman Laba who recently died in December 2022. Raba described a section of Denali’s South Face (now commonly known as the American Direct) as follows:
The problem of doing a new route in the mountains can not be communicated by a catalogue of difficulties: ice slope, rock lead or even the objective dangers of route and weather. The real obstacle remains unnamed, almost ineffable, incommunicable. Let me put it thus. Up there on a ledge there’s this Balrog and his attendant ores, all sharpening their teeth and patting their expectant, grinning bellies, just for us, Denny, Gray, Dave and me, Hobbits from Bree.
– Mt McKinley’s South Face, Del Langbauer and Roman Laba; AAJ 1967
The first ascent of Mt Balrog was via the Southwest Face by Hannes Arch and Helmut Neswadba. Arch described their route as follows:
On July 14 we climbed the 1300-meter-high southwest face of P 7979 on the eastern side of the Ruth Gorge, 1½ miles northwest of Glacier Point. We climbed a gully to a snow basin and snowfield and thence onto a ridge where there was good rock with some UIAA V+ and some mixed climbing. We descended the north side where we had eight rappels until we could descend the glacier to the Ruth. Because of continuing good weather we chose a 1000-meter- high rock buttress of P 7500 (“Tower of London South”), which lies 1¼ miles northwest of P 7979. On July 17, we started up to do the climb alpine-style. We got to the summit after 20 difficult pitches at 8:30 A.M. the next day. (UIAA VIII+, A2 or 5.11d, A2.) The weather was perfect. That same day, we descended rappelling and down-climbing. We were flown out on July 22.
– Peaks on the Eastern Side of the Ruth Gorge, Hannes Arch; AAJ 1991
In continuing down the serendipitous path of Alaska Range climbing I have to mention more about Hannes Arch. Arch was a climber, skier, BASE jumper and Red Bull stunt pilot who tragically died in a helicopter crash in 2017. Some of his famous exploits include landing a paraglider on top of a hot ballon and riding a snowboard off the ballon, BASE jumping the North Face of the Eiger and the Matterhorn.He was also a champion paragliding aerobatic and the 2008 Red Bull Air Race champion (watch his winning London run here).
Other Peaks
Beyond the ring of prominent peaks that encircle the glacier there are several peaks that can be reached via Glacier 1. The Broken Tooth can be easily approached via a north face slope northeast of Sholes – however most alpinist gunning for that peak will attempt to land on the northwest fork of the Coffee. The east face of London Tower can also be reached via an easy tour. This route was climbed in 1981 by Dave Grimes, Dave Johnston, and Brian Okonek (AAJ 1981), however these days London Tower is mostly climbed from the west via Prelude Gully / Freezy Nuts (AAJ 2023 / May 2009 ascent notes). Likewise there is a string of unclimbed peaks in the valleys east and south of Glacier 1.

The Tooth massif and Broken Tooth from the summit of Mt Sholes.
A week on Glacier 1
In April 2024 I was fortunate to be invited on a ski trip where we spent a week on and around Glacier 1. The week prior to our flight it snowed 5’ feet in the Alaska Range and we questioned whether we should go. But on the day of our flight it was bluebird with a decent forecast. We flew in with Talkeetna Air Taxi and landed in thigh deep blower pow. Our goal was primarily skiing so we were excited to have good snow right off the bat and the stoke was high! We unloaded the plane, quickly set up camp and set off to ski Mt. Sholes directly behind camp. A quick ascent in the sun to a summit with perfect views in all directions and then skins off for a descent of the East face.

And then reality set in: In the 4 hours between when we had landed, set up camp and broken trail to the summit the thigh deep blower snow had warmed and developed a crust. Blower powder turns became breakable survival skiing. And that set the stage for the rest of the trip. Our total group size was 6 people, and 3 of the group wanted to search out steeper lines closer to camp – while I was able to convince Tyndall Ellis and Aaron Holmen that steep skiing was overrate and we should instead tour for miles in all directions.
We had 5 full days for skiing and touring and had descent weather on 3 of those days which allowed us to complete 3 long tours. Some notes and photos from those tours are below.

The main fork of the Coffee Glacier and the Coffee Icefall.
Espresso Gap
The goal of this out and back tour was to cross the Sholes/Mazama col, drop down to the Coffee Glacier and then tour up-glacier before retracing our tracks back.
The day we did this tour we had bluebird weather. We started the day with decent snow up and over the col and then a good run down the 1000’ drop to the glacier where we roped up. This is referred to as the Northwest fork of the Coffee Glacier, however the two main branches of the Coffee Glacier no longer connect and the terrain between the two branches is unstable due to the recent retreat of the ice. Likewise the main icefall of the Coffee – where the main fork tumbles off at 4000’ (east of the Broken Tooth) – is in near-constant motion with seracs pitching off and tumbling 1000+’ to the valley below.
As of 2024 winter travel above 4000’ on the glaciers is still straightforward. The lower section of the Northwest Fork is flat enough to land a plane on and we easily cruised two miles until reaching the icefall at the 5000’ contour line which was easily passed on climbers left.
Above the icefall we had easy travel all the way to Espresso Gap where we peered over the pass and down at the Ruth. This gap has been ascended several times from the West by climbers going for Broken Tooth and other peaks in the vicinity, however the approach from the east side – and even from Glacier 1 – is much easier and not near as steep. That said – a fun tour would be to land the Mountain House and ski to Glacier 1 – or some variation that involves this pass.

A short snack on the col and then back down our ascent route. On the way back we unroped and skied the skin track – easily passing through the icefall and back to the Sholes / Mazama col. In total the tour was 14 miles and 4ooo’ of elevation gain/loss and it took us about 8 hours. This is a great tour – and one I’d recommend to anyone traveling in that area!

The Great Gorge.
Southern Loop
This was a route I had mapped out at home. The idea was to go up and over a col near Fake Peak, drop down to the valley east of Glacier 1, then travel south up and over a pass and down to the Ruth before finally curving around and heading up Glacier 1 and back to camp. We estimated it would take 10-14 hrs and packed a lot of food and water, plus a brothy bag which I was excited to pack – but something I hope to never actually use.
On our first attempt Aaron, Tyndall and I left the tents at 8am and quickly skied up and over Fake Peak col before dropping down onto the glacier lobe due east of Mt Glisen. Weather was sub-par and visibility was pretty much non-existent yet we pushed on in the hopes that conditions would improve. They never did. We inched our way down the unknown glacier in flat light that go so bad that we resorted to the fly fishing technique where cord is tied to a ski pole and cast out in front in order to provide some sort of depth perception. There were patches of clear skies to the east so we kept pushing – but eventually the route necked down and dropped over a short cliff to the valley below. Unwilling to down-climb rock in bad visibility we opted to turn around and head back to camp.
The next day gave us high clouds but decent weather so we set out again. This time we gained the col in good weather and then climbed a few hundred feet to gain the glacier on the southern slopes of Mt Mazama. This lead to a broad south facing moderate slope that had a stiff suncrust – but we were able to descend without issues.


The light was decent and we were able to easily descend 1500′ to the valley floor. Once on the flats we put on our skins and began skiing around Mt Lee towards the pass between Peak 6202 and Peak 5720 (6202 Pass) that would allow us to drop to the Ruth.
Around that time conditions began to deteriorate. Weather was never bad enough to give us concern – but the high clouds began to drop and soon the flat light set in and slowed down our progress. We pushed on in the flat lights, moving past Peak 6202 and the beautiful north facing glacier that spills over cliffs and then up a gradual slope to the pass.

We reached the pass at noon and the clouds were high enough to where we could see down valley to the Ruth Glacier. Snow conditions were decent, but the flat light persisted and the descent was slow with a few miscalculations and ski wrecks over slope angle and dropoffs, but we eventually reached the Ruth.
At the Ruth we curved north and were able to work out way over to Glacier 1 without having to drop down onto the crevassed glacier below. Then a loooong slow climb back up to camp. 14 miles / 4K and a total time of 8 hours.

North Glacier of Peak 6202
Back in camp we began planning our next outing immediately. The one peak that had caught our eye during our loop tour was 6202 and the beautiful north glacier that spilled down to near where we had toured. So we consulted the maps, spent a day eyeing the approach via the Mt Lee col and then once again packed a pile of food and water and left camp at 8:30am on a sunny day.
This would be our last full day or touring and the glorious April sunlight was out in full force. Great for visibility and skiing – not so good for the pass we needed to descend. The route down from Mt. Lee was complicated with large avalanche runouts and a terrain trap we needed to ski across in order to reach slopes we could descend. Luckily we had a set track down-glacier and up to the col and we were able to make good time and were at the col within an hour of leaving camp.
We dropped in – skiing down and then across a steep rollover filled with fresh wet debris. Then a traverse skiers left and down to a safe zone underneath a huge rock outcropping that had deflected debris on either side. We regrouped and then skied one at time down to the valley floor.
Initially we had hoped to be able to attempt the route and then reverse our route back up the Mt Lee col (in order to avoid the slog out from the Ruth), however by 9:30am the lower southern slopes had already transitioned to corn and upon reaching the base we heard a large wet slide release on the south face of Mt Lee. We knew right away that reversing the route wasn’t an option and mentally began to prepare for the arduous slog that awaited at the end of the day.
That said – the Mt Lee col approach pretty much deposited us at the base of the route. A mile of travel and we were at the base of the glacier within 4 miles and 2 hours of leaving camp.
We then turned sharp left and began climbing up. A few hundred feet up we donned climbing gear and roped up and were soon skinning up the glacier weaving between the exposed ice on climbers left and the overhanging cornices on climbers right. The ski up went quickly and we soon reached a col at 5500′ that overlooked the peaks to the south and east. We had minimal climbing gear so continuing onto the true summit was not an option – so the peak probably still awaits a first ascent. If you want to climb it bring some pickets and cord for the final steep bit to the top.
We snapped some quick photos and then turned and skied back down out route. Unfortunately the snow quality was variable with everything from powder to crust to breakable to sastrugi so the turns we all wanted never materialized. But soon we were down and once again skiing up to 6202 Pass so we could descend to the Ruth.
This time we had decent light – and our old tracks could still be seen in places where the wind hadn’t covered them – and we quickly and easily dropped down to the Ruth.

Then around to Glacier 1 and the looong slow slog back to camp. This time the sun was shining brightly and mid-April sun on a glacier is brutal. I put down my head and shuffled up-hill.

Acknowledgments
Thanks to Kellen, Kenny, Micheal, Tyndall and Aaron for allowing me to join their annual ski trip at the last minute. And thanks to Aaron and Tyndall for being willing to slog – with special thanks to Tyndall who broke trail for miles while Aaron and I pretended to adjust our boots every-time he turned around. Also thanks to Mathew Brock and Steve Gruhn for the historical notes and resources. And of course to TAT for the flights. And while I consider our “old offender” Dr. Cook to be a dishonorable faker (to quote Washburn and Rusk) the Ruth Gorge is a place where I have spent many weeks and a place I love dearly – so I commend the Dishonorable Dr. Cook for his early explorations and for introducing the world to this place of beauty.